Chub Tubs

Chub Tubs

Chub Tubs

designed by Rob Hartley

 

Get yours from Rob on the 67-72 Chevy Truck forum

These things are awesome! Can’t wait to get to the stage on my build where I can mock these in place to get a first glance.

Rob is a great guy who thoroughly researched and delivered an exceptional product much needed for us truck nuts.

FITech GoEFI Install on Goldmember

FITech GoEFI Install on Goldmember

Overview of the FITech Go EFI install on project GoldMember

Using vendor information and various posts from the 67-72 truck forum along with my personal experiences, I will document the install as best I can.

I ordered the FITech Go EFI 4 600hp basic kit # 30002.  The first few pics are from the initial unpacking. At first glance, this kit looks to be nicely put together and has good quality parts included. It will be installed on a mild 350/700R4 drive-train going into the Burb. As I am finally getting to the point where the mock up can begin, I will add in some of the resources I have found online for reference.

The 40003 Fuel Command Center utilizes a sump tank that mounts in your engine compartment. Use your existing fuel pump (low pressure electric or engine driven carbureted) to deliver fuel to the sump where a 340 L/PH high pressure fuel pump is submerged in fuel. This style pump runs cooler and is quieter than external inline pumps.
 
While looking at various installs, I found some good reference Pictures from the Post listed above on the 67-72 truck forum. I took one of his pics and made an annotated image for reference so that while I’m in the shop working, I can have something to work from.
 

Since I do not yet have the engine installed, I snapped a pic just for fun with the throttle body sitting on the intake. But my real focus has been on getting the Fuel Command Center mounted to the core support, and running a vent line back the the vent tube located near the fuel filler neck.

 

Adding updated information for the Fuel Command Center Pulse Width Modulation settings related to some reported over heating issues. FITech explains that they ship the system with a PWM setting originally designed for a frame mounted fuel pump, read-on…

Setting the Fuel Pump Pulse Width Modulation

Did you know that you can control the pulse width modulation (speed) of your fuel pump with your hand held controller?

Your system comes shipped with the fuel pump control pwm set for frame mounted pumps. If you are using a fuel command center (fcc) you should change the speed of the pump.

To do this follow these steps:
Step 1: Plug hand held controller into the ECU on the FiTech Throttle Body. Turn your key on or start your engine to power the system.

Step 2: Go to the Main Menu. In the Main Menu Scroll down to option 6 Go EFI Pro Tuning. Select Go EFI Pro Tuning.

fitech-fcc1

 

 

 

Step 3: In the Go EFI Pro Tuning Menu scroll down to Option 12 Fuel Pump Control. Select Fuel Pump Control.

fitech-fcc2

 

 

 

Step 4: Scroll down to option 7 (PWM Low Flow) select edit. In the edit menu press clear (CLR) enter a new value of 40.

fitech-fcc3fitech-fcc4

 

Press OK, Then in the Fuel Pump Control Menu press the center of the control stick to send the change to the ECU.

fitech-fcc5

 

 

 

Step 5: If the engine is running the system update should be complete and you are done. If the changes were made with just the key on turn the key off and wait 15 seconds for the system to power down (the screen will flash black) once this is complete you may now start the engine and verify your change.

I did the mock-up the Fuel Command Center last night, I made a mounting plate out of 3/16 aluminum and located it next to the headlight on the driver’s side. As there are few places under the hood to locate this, i think its going to work out fine. Plus, In reading other install threads, I know it is working for other C10 owners, which is a bonus and saves some potential headaches..

 

Goldmember Audio

Goldmember Audio

Overview of the Audio components I am using in GlodMember

 

Head unit is a Kenwood KDC-HD545U.

Product Highlights:

General features:
  • CD player with built-in MOSFET amplifier (22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)
  • built-in HD Radio tuner with iTunes tagging
  • plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RW discs, including discs loaded with MP3, WMA, and AAC files
  • detachable face with with 13-character fluorescent display
  • remote control
Audio features:
  • System Q Sound Control (6 EQ curves and a 3-band equalizer)
  • Supreme Setting function restores high frequencies in music files
  • low-pass subwoofer filter
Expandability:
  • iPod direct control via USB input — no adapter necessary.
  • compatible with Kenwood’s Bluetooth adapter, satellite radio, and CD changer
  • inputs: front auxiliary and USB inputs
  • outputs: 6-channel preamp outputs ( 2-volt front, rear, and sub)

 

Crutchfield Review

Our take on the Kenwood KDC-HD545U

 

Kenwood built the KDC-HD545U CD receiver to cover all the bases. Sure, you expect a CD player, but factor in built-in iPod® controls, an auxiliary input, and a cutting-edge HD Radio™ tuner, and you’ve got a powerful and complete package ready for your ride.

A multimedia marvel
With the KDC-HD545U’s HD Radio tuner, you can enjoy the outstanding sound quality of digital radio broadcasts, with FM that approaches the sound quality of CDs. And if your local HD Radio station employs multicasting, you’ll have the option of listening to multiple channels on the same frequency. When your iPod’s connected to the receiver, iTunes® tagging lets you save song info, so you can purchase tracks you enjoy later on iTunes — a nice bonus.

Connection and control of your iPod is a snap with this receiver. Plug into the front-panel USB input, and take command with a variety of tools, including dedicated Search and Return keys — you’ll find it easy to get to the tracks and playlists you want to hear.

You can play your store-bought and recordable CDs, including discs full of MP3, WMA and AAC files. If you’d like to expand your system, you can add a Kenwood CD changer or satellite radio, or use the front aux input for a direct audio connection from virtually any audio source.

Convenient shortcuts
The Mixed-Preset Memory feature gives you a useful one-touch shortcut to a favorite playlist, satellite radio channel, an HD Radio station, and more. Once the preset buttons are set to your choices, you’ll be able to jump from station to playlist to feature with one touch of your finger.

The sound quality story
A strong built-in amp provides plenty of power to drive your speakers, while the 24-bit digital-to-analog converter brings out every last detail in your music. Use the 3-band equalizer to tweak the highs, mids, and lows for the perfect sound curve for your car.

If your aim is maximum sound quality, you’ll appreciate the three sets of preamp outputs for connecting and controlling a full setup of external amps and subs.

Want to keep your car’s steering wheel audio controls?
In most vehicles, you can use this adapter to connect your vehicle’s steering wheel controls to this Kenwood stereo. Connect a few wires, then program the adapter for your particular car and the Kenwood, and you’ll retain the convenience of your steering wheel controls.

Note: If you’re going to use your iPod with this receiver, be sure to check “Details” for specific iPod model compatibility with this receiver or its optional iPod adapter.

Phoenix Gold R9.0:5 4x125W+1x400W Octane-R Amp

Product Highlights:

General features:

 This is also new in the box, The all-new Octane-R Series Amplifiers are big-power amplifiers with street racing cosmetics. Overbuilt and indestructible power supplies provide rock solid stability and reliability. Phoenix Gold took a look at what’s happening on the streets and came out with a new line of amps that have all the answers. Not just another pretty face (but they ARE beautiful!), these new amps can also take anything you can throw at them. Count on Phoenix Gold’s engineers to deliver the goods.

  • Phoenix Gold R9.0:5 4x125W+1x400W Octane-R Amp
    • *Fully complementary output stage *5 channel power amplifier *400 watt sub channel!
    • Features Carbon fiber badge, back-lit with blue LED
    • Separate 12db variable HighPass and 18db LowPass Crossovers (40-400Hz)
    • Twin – T Bass EQ Circuitry
    • Remote Monitoring Display (RMD) port
    • Overload and comparator circuitry
    • Two/four channel amplifiers stability = 2 ohms stereo/4 ohms bridged
    • Full-range thru output
    • Part Number263-944
    • Weight 13 lbs.
Audio features:
  • Power output, front and rear stereo channels: 50 watts RMS/125 watts max x 4 (4 ohm load)
  • 75 watts RMS/200 watts max x 4 (2 ohm load)
  • 150 watts RMS x 2 (bridged mono, 4 ohm load)
  • Power output, mono subwoofer channel: 150 watts RMS/250 watts max x 1 (4 ohm load)
  • 250 watts RMS/400 watts max x 1 (2 ohm load)
  • Frequency response: 20 Hz-20 kHz *THD 1%
  • Signal to noise ratio: greater than 110 dB
  • Dimensions: 19.75″ L x 10.875″ W x 2.25″ H

 

 

 

Phoenix Gold Speakers

Product Highlights:

5.0 In speaker features:
  • Size: 13 cm (5 in.)
  • The number of bands: 2
  • Power: 70 W (nominal), 140 W (maximum)
  • Sensitivity: 89 dB
  • Frequency range: 60 – 24000 Hz
    • Crossover
    • External crossover: yes
    • WOOFER
    • Dimensions: 130 mm
3.0 In speaker features:

 

  • Active / Passive Speakers: Passive
  • Active/passive: Passive
  • Built In/External: Built-in Passive
  • Category: Pair of Speakers
  • Direction (1-4 Way): 2 way
  • Installation: Built-In
  • Installation Type: Built-In
  • Number of Ways: 2
  • Power (Watts): 25+ watts
  • Speakers Format: Round
  • Type of Set: Pair
  • Wattage: 80
  • Ways: 2

 

 

 

Sony Xplode xs-L126P5 Subwoofer

Product Highlights:

  • 12″ Xplod Dual 4 ohm Series Subwoofer
  • Power Handling:
    • Peak: 1500 watts
    • RMS: 400 watts
  • Impedance: Dual 4 ohm
  • Mica reinforced cellular glass fiber composite cone
  • Rubber surround
  • Gold plated 5-way binding posts
  • Sony’s traditional pentagon shaped cone
  • Fits in all standard 12″ round cut-out holes
  • High temperature voice coils
  • Ferrite magnet
  • Mounting depth: 6-1/2″
  • Frequency response: 30-1,000 Hz
  • Sensitivity: 84 dB

 

Recommended Enclosure Specifications

  • Recommended Enclosure Type: Ported / Vented / Sealed
  • Minimum Sealed Box Volume: 0.77 cubic feet
  • Maximum Sealed Box Volume: 0.77 cubic feet
  • Minimum Ported Box Volume: 1.13 cubic feet
  • Maximum Ported Box Volume: 1.13 cubic feet
  • Top-Mount Depth: 6-1/2″
  • Cutout Diameter: 11-1/8″

 

 

Subwoofer Wiring

Crutchfield install guide

1 Sony XS-LD126P5 Subwoofer

Mono Amp

2 Channel Amp – Bridged

2 Sony XS-LD126P5 Subwoofers

Mono Amp

Mono Amp – Option 1

2 Channel Amp

2 Channel Amp – Bridged

4 Channel Amp – Bridged

3 Sony XS-LD126P5 Subwoofers

Mono Amp

4 Channel Amp

4 Sony XS-LD126P5 Subwoofers

Mono Amp

2 Channel Amp

2 Channel Amp – Bridged

4 Channel Amp

Subwoofer Enclosure and online resource Information

Sony parameters for Sealed box dimensions (net volume)

  • Width – 15 3/8
  • Height – 14 1/4
  • Depth – 9 1/8
  • Material thickness 3/4 (MDF preferred)
  • Net volume – 21.8 Liters or 0.77 Cu ft.

 

I tweaked it just a bit using the Boxnotes software app

subboxsubboxcutlist

A few online resources

 

 

 

 

Grinding Metal a primer

Grinding Metal a primer

How to Grind Metal

—01

This information is provided here as a re-post from this article on the 67-72 Chevy Truck Forums.

there seems to be allot of confusion on how to grind metal, I am gonna try my best at helping everyone out some, I still have more to add, but this will be a start. 

FIRST: THE TOOLS NEEDED.

:Sanders, 

6″ Dynabrade for my finish work, this does finer swirl marks in the metal, creating a more uniform appearance. 
6″ Dual Action sander, AKA,”THE KNUCKLE BUSTER” if you know the meaning of this, you have used one. used for medium sanding
8″ Mac sander/grinder, used for initial knockdown and leveling.

“Don’t be afraid to dive in and tackle these tough jobs, the right tools and techniques will see you through!.”

—02

:Grinders, there are several, this is what I use

Bosch 4.5″ electic grinder with either a flap disc or grinding stone, or cut off wheel. This is my favorite.

El Cheapo air grinder for all of my Carbide bits, these are used for corners and any place I can not grind with a stone

Air tool for my cut-off discs and 3″ grinding stones

Mac 90 degree grinder for my ROLOC discs, ranging from 36 to 80 grit, also comes with abrasive pads and surface pads.

 

—03

:Safety Equipment, A MUST HAVE!!!!!!

proper gloves, I use tig welding gloves
face shield
ear muffs
3M particle mask
Safety googles

SPOT WELDS.

So you have a spot weld you want to grind down, what now? Should I just hit it with a hard stone until it’s beyond flat and now I’ve

heated the metal along the way, NOPE. stop right there.

you never want to heat the metal when grinding, especially when it starts turning blue, bad, very bad, you just warped your metal and

now have more work to deal with.

The first thing to do is grab a 3″ hard grinding stone, or one on the electric grinder and slowly, I mean slowly, grid down that weld, get

it close to the surface of the original metal, without touching the original metal. It takes practice, I know. 


Once you have it close to the bottom, switch over to your ROLOC disc and start smoothing it out, never put too much pressure on the

metal itself, just let the grinder do the work for you, nice and easy does it. This will take some getting used to but once it is mastered,

you will have won half the battle.

Now you have some marks either in 36, 50, or 80 grit leftover from the grinder, what now? Leave them? nope, depending on how bad

you have cleaned up that weld, you can now use your sanders and smooth them out.

I always use 80 grit on my pads to do this. Sand it for a bit and you are done, 8 out of 10 ten times, no “mudwork” is needed.

You have just mastered spot weld grinding.

 

STITCH WELDS.

This is where it gets tricky. Lets say you have a weld 10″ long, well that is a major heat source waiting to warp. Time must be taken to

do these types of welds, Patience will prevail.

Well which tool should i start with? For a weld this large I either start with my 3″ air grinder or my Bosch 4.5″ hard stone grinder.

Depends on what you have and how you feel.  Now remember to go slow and let the stone do the work for you, nice and easy,

Do not to rush into things! otherwise it just gets messy.

Grind a small section at a time or go back and forth over it slowly. Never sit in one spot too long or you just heated the metal and

caused more work for yourself. 

Since you have now ground down the majority with the stone, I switch over to my Bosch grinder with a flap disc using 36 grit, this

allows me to remove material quickly without pressure and does a nice smooth job. I never go to hard with this one either.

Start at one end and go back and forth over the metal, these flap discs do an amazing job on leveling the weld and creating a nice

uniform surface. If you still feel wearily about getting too close with an electric grinder, then just finish it up with you ROLOC disc and

smooth it out.

Now that I have gone this far, I will normally take my 8″ MAC sander and smooth over the whole surface with 120 grit. After this is

done, I use my D/A sanders and finish the job, nicely ground down and sanded, nothing looks better than this.

 

OTHER TID BITS.

Wire wheels on the electric grinder work great fora variety of cleanup chores such as , seam sealer, old grease and grime, gutters…..
I also have a Hard grinding disc for my MAC 8″ air grinder and this works great for many many welds that need smoothing, pinch weld

seams, stitch welds, frames……

The carbide bits are a god send in my work, you can use them for just about anything, from cleaning up a weld in a hard to reach

area to smoothing out that corner that nothing else can get to, to creating a nice radius in a transition area.

Keep all of you old 3″ air grinder hard discs around, you never know when that one that is almost worn out to nothing will be used

next, but it could be the right diameter for a job that you are trying to get a smooth grind in or transition.

Even worn out ROLOCS come in handy, when they wear out, they tend to bend,well this is perfect for when you are trying to blend in

a radius or doing a corner, they hardly bite and more pressure can be put on them.

Flap discs for the electric grinders have their purposes also, the new ones are great for tight 90’s, and much more, but sometimes

that old used one works better for edges> You can just trim it down some on the edge and you have a brand new, but smaller flap disc!

I hope this helps some people out in the hobby world, there is so much more yet to learn, but this is a start.